For AW16, Neslişah Yılmaz and Nur Çağlayan showcased a mesmerising mélange of fun cocktail dresses and stylish eveningwear. The collection was as enticingly hypnotic as it was sophisticated. Gracefully engaging to the eye, it was chic, classy and refined; everything to which Barrus is signature. Figure hugging midi-dresses, pencil skirts and tailored separates elegantly enthralled the catwalk in a mixture of soft pastel Turkish marbling, set against oxblood red, black, jade and emerald green. Ethereal gowns floated with romantic fluidity, alongside feather adornment, fur, pleating, and sequin embellished lace beading. Majestically driven and diversely decadent, the Barrus AW16 collection was without doubt a vision both striking and spellbinding.
Pleating and embellishment were also seen at Lantern Sense, although executed in a display slightly more androgynous to that showcased at Barrus. Shimmery metallic skirts, sequin adorned tops and feminine pleated separates were offset by tough leather garments and hessian sack canvas. Outfits were styled with boyish footwear, black socks, mirrored eyewear, and oversized faux fur earmuffs and hats. Deconstruction, raw frayed raffia finishing and safety pin fastenings added a hard grunge derived edge, further juxtaposing the softer feminine fabrics and silhouettes. Young, fun, and full of energy, this collection had London street style and 80s punk-rock down to a capital T.
Continuity of the punk theme was evident at Typical Freaks, where feminine hues of pastel pink and baby blue were contrasted against rebellious rugged and degraded fabric. Muslin, shiny polyester and durable cotton were materials key to the collection. Superhero connotations were noteworthy, with many of the garments displaying comic book graphics and boldly printed motifs. Headphones and helmets, and brightly coloured spiky punk inspired hairstyles further emulated an urban youth street anti-fashion cultural aesthetic. In summation, this was a collection audacious, lively and a whole lot of fun!
From punk to soft silhouettes and a rustic rural show setting at Niro Wang. While the audience waited in anticipation one couldn’t help but notice the careful positioning of wooden animal shapes spread over the catwalk, accompanied by the subtle sound of cowbell charms. As the show began, the idyllic pre-show atmosphere instantly streamed through to the clothing. With a bucolic nod to pastoral influence, Wang presented a collection of beautifully wearable garments. In a predominately muted colour palette, simplicity was key. Beautifully draped loose-fitting silhouettes were complimented by printed patterns of animals, the ‘Dala Horse’ and illustrative foliage. Serene and fuss-free, the clothing and ambiance excelled an air of tranquility and inner peace. A contemporary, wearable and well executed collection for AW16.
With a collection named ‘Freaky Friday’ you already knew that the Steven Tai collection would be anything but boring. Renowned for his excellent attention to detail, Tai presented a rather refreshing and thought-provoking ready-to-wear collection for AW16. “When I woke up this morning, I found I’d turned into my mother” – these words aptly set the scene for the collection presented. Inspired by the phrase ‘an old soul,’ the message was clear. Tai intellectually played on notions of age and wisdom, youth and acceptance, and used the art of dress to metaphorically capture the essence of the Steven Tai girl. “Wise beyond her years” is how he depicts his AW16 muse. Pleated skirts, corduroy, and over-sized ensembles with floral patterns were pertinent pieces within the collection. Woven materials and mature-feeling frayed edging emulated the message of nostalgia and age. A colour palette of soft lavender, duck-egg blue, sandy beige and olive green was employed to convey a feeling of reminiscence and astuteness. Models who sat peacefully sewing on rocking chairs wearing grandmother style reading glasses further projected a vision of an old before her time, school girl nerd, not afraid to reveal the real ‘wise beyond her years’ self.
Words: Liz Sargeant www.lizsargeantstyling.com @LS_Styling
Images: Mehul Derodra www.derodra.com @derodraaa